Ponmudi is a hill station in the Western Ghats, about 60 km north-east of Thiruvananthapuram, reached by a road that climbs through around 22 hairpin bends from Kallar to the top. From Varkala it's a long day, roughly 90 to 110 km each way depending on your route, and a ride for a geared motorcycle, not a scooter.
It's further than we'd usually send anyone. Our day trips guide puts the sensible limit at about 70 km each way, and Ponmudi is past it. We're writing about it anyway because people ask, and because for an experienced rider it's the best road within reach of Varkala. Here's the honest version.
How far is Ponmudi from Varkala?
Roughly 90 to 110 km each way, depending on whether you go through Thiruvananthapuram or cut inland. Thiruvananthapuram to Ponmudi alone is 54 to 61 km on the main road, and Varkala to Thiruvananthapuram adds another 45 to 50. Plan on around three hours each way, with stops.
Check the exact distance for your route on a map before you leave, and treat it as a full day: leave early and ride back in daylight.
What is the best route from Varkala to Ponmudi?
The Ponmudi road itself is State Highway 45, which runs from Thiruvananthapuram through Nedumangad, Vithura and Kallar to the top. The question is how you reach it. Going through central Thiruvananthapuram means city traffic in both directions, and maps will usually offer an inland route towards Nedumangad that avoids most of it.
Fill up in Nedumangad or Vithura before you start climbing. Once you're on the hairpins, don't count on finding fuel.
How many hairpin bends are there to Ponmudi?
Around 22, starting at Kallar. Most sources say 22, though you'll see 23 quoted too. They're tight, and in places two vehicles can barely pass, so ride them in a low gear, keep left, and expect buses and cars to take more than their share of the road.
The road has been closed in the past after heavy rain because of landslide risk, including cracks that opened near the 11th and 12th bends in 2022. That's the main reason to check conditions on the day.
Can you ride to Ponmudi on a scooter?
We wouldn't give you one for this. A scooter will get up the hairpins, but on a 200 km day with a long climb and descent, a geared motorcycle gives you engine braking on the way down and far less fatigue. It's exactly the case scooter or motorcycle in Varkala describes.
Tell us when you book that you're planning Ponmudi. It changes which bike we'd give you, and it means we know where you are if something goes wrong. A 200 km day will probably go past the daily kilometre allowance, so check the per-km rate beyond it on the pricing page and budget for it.
Are there entry timings or a checkpost at Ponmudi?
Yes. The Forest Department controls access to the hill, and there's a checkpost on the way up. Entry hours are restricted and aren't published anywhere we trust, so start early and check locally before you set off rather than arriving late and being turned back.
The hill also closes to visitors during heavy rain. If the weather has been bad, call the local police station or ask at the checkpost before you commit to the ride.
What is there to see at Ponmudi?
The ride is most of it. At the top there's Golden Valley for walks and photographs, Echo Point, and views across the Ghats. Kallar, at the foot of the hairpins, has its own viewpoint. Seethatheertham and Varayadumotta are trekking spots if you have the time and the legs.
There really is wildlife here: Kerala Tourism's listing mentions elephants, gaur and the Nilgiri tahr. Ride slowly through the forest sections, and don't stop to feed the monkeys.
When is the best time to ride to Ponmudi?
November to February, when it's clear, cool and the roads are dry. Expect mist at the top on mornings at any time of year, which slows the last few bends. In the monsoon, roughly June to September, we'd skip it: wet hairpins, poor visibility and the risk of closure all at once.
It's noticeably colder at the top than on the coast. Take a layer; you'll want it for the descent.
Is Ponmudi worth it from Varkala?
For an experienced rider who wants a real road, yes. It's a completely different Kerala from the cliff, and the hairpins are the best riding within a day of Varkala. For anyone else it's a lot of hours on a bike for a misty viewpoint, and Jatayu Earth's Center, at 28 km, gives you hills and a view without the distance.
If you're going, take a geared motorcycle, collect it the evening before from our shop at Hospital Junction, and be on the road at first light.