Most of Varkala's cafés and restaurants line the North Cliff, where long-running places like Coffee Temple, Café del Mar, Darjeeling Café and Trattorias look out over the sea. For a proper Kerala meal, eat in town instead. The cliff is for the view and the evening; town is for lunch at local prices.
Nobody pays to be on this list. These are places that have been on the cliff for years and that riders ask us about most, and we say where reviews are mixed. Cafés here open, close and change hands from season to season, so check recent reviews before you go, especially early or late in the year.
Where are the best cafés in Varkala?
On the North Cliff, along the path that runs north from the helipad above Papanasam and Black Beach. Almost every café there has a sea view; the difference is what you want from it.
- Coffee Temple: the morning spot on the main cliff path, known for its coffee and cold brew. Busy from early.
- Café del Mar: Italian food and drinks with a sea view, and a favourite at sunset.
- Darjeeling Café: right on the cliff edge. The setting is the draw; reviews of the food are mixed.
- Trattorias: a long menu with plenty of vegetarian and vegan dishes, useful for groups who can't agree.
- InDa Café: set back from the busiest stretch and quieter for it. Good if you want to sit for a while.
Which cafés have the best sunset view?
Any west-facing table on the cliff gets the sunset, but the North Cliff cafés fill up for it from late afternoon in season, so arrive early if you want a table at the edge. The South Cliff is quieter and, we think, has the better sunset, though there are far fewer places to eat.
Where can you eat a Kerala meal in Varkala?
In town, not on the cliff. The small local restaurants around the temple and towards the railway station serve Kerala meals at lunchtime (rice with a run of curries, often on a banana leaf) for a fraction of cliff prices. Look for the busy ones at one o'clock; that's the only review you need.
Seafood is the other thing to eat here. Cliff restaurants put the day's catch on display in the evening and cook it to order. Agree the price by weight before they start cooking.
Are there vegetarian and vegan options in Varkala?
Plenty. Kerala meals in local restaurants are often vegetarian, and the cliff cafés have catered to yoga-retreat crowds for years, so vegan dishes are a normal part of the menu rather than a special request.
What is the nightlife like in Varkala?
Cafés, live music and late dinners rather than clubs. Kerala's alcohol rules make for a quieter evening than Goa, and things wind down earlier than people from bigger beach towns expect.
If you've had a drink, don't ride back. The police do check, the roads off the cliff are dark, and an auto back to your room costs far less than the alternative.
Where do you park a scooter on the cliff?
Not on the cliff path, which is for walking, whatever you see other people doing. Park in the lanes behind the North Cliff and walk the last stretch. Space is tight in the evenings in season, which is why a scooter is easier here than anything bigger.
Lock the steering and take the key with you. Only leave the helmet with the bike if you can lock it on.
Are the cliff cafés open all year?
Not all of them. Many cliff businesses close or scale down in the monsoon, roughly June to September, and reopen as the season picks up in October. From December to February everything is open and busy. Out of season, check before you ride out to a particular place.
Getting there
The North Cliff is a short ride from our shop at Hospital Junction. If you're staying north at Odayam or Edava, or out towards Kappil, you'll want your own wheels to get to dinner and back. Where to stay in Varkala covers what each area is like, and a scooter is the easy way to get around in the evenings.